/ˈkaməˌflä(d)ZH/, 2017

/ˈkaməˌflä(d)ZH/ - a new interactive installation was presented as a fashion show of ‘art-to-wear ‘ collection and included a “runway” performance - a procession of models marched down a golden catwalk to the soundtrack of military marches, cadences and chants. Frequently crossing boundaries between art and design Julia Nitsberg often employs printing, collage and direct fabric manipulation as a creative response to the most contemporary fashion trends. The idea of camouflage as a way to disguise something and to make believe or pretend it to be something else has been often exploited in art and it is not new to fashion. Dubbed camouflage, the collection has overtly historical and literary references combined with social, political and even sexual ones. Eclectic by nature, the collection mixes reconstructed but elegantly crafted jackets, parts of military uniforms and playful underwear, - all used in a runaway performance. The printed shadows of imaginary catwalks flanged the runway from both sides, marching to and from the golden pyramid, symbolizing the wealth and glamour associated with both contemporary art and fashion.

“Orlando”, - an eponymous transgender hero, metamorphosed by the first feminist writer Virginia Woolf, became Julia Nitsberg’s inspiration for sculptural reconstruction of conservative men’s jackets into fancy tailored women’s vests. The golden tags and slogans printed on military jackets is a commentary on American media and fashion coverage of military actions, the grits and glam of war theatre, in which American soldier plays a heroic role of a peacemaker, - a quite opposite take from the young pacifists/designers of the 60s.
The installation was the first collaboration of Julia Nitsberg with Masha Avina, another New York artist, who shares love for found objects and welcomes accidents. Avina’s oversize art jewelry complimented the clothes and became an integral part in the exhibition.

PII Gallery, 242 Race Street, Philadelphia; May, 2017.

video: Mikhail Prosmushkin
video: Mikhail Prosmushkin